The City of Lights’ glamour, forward-thinking ideas and sweeping sets never fail to amaze me (@anahitaglitters): from the runway debut of Rokh Hwang (who cut his teeth at #OldCeline) to the final show from Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, and Hedi Slimane’s shocking sartorial reversal (back to ’70s bourgeois) at the new Celine. In the end, romance won the week (as when Valentino charmed the audience with haute threads embroidered with dreamy poetry). Paris, after all, is also the City of Love.
Like a bolt from the blue, shades of cobalt, cornflower and indigo were everywhere. The color washed over an ombré trench at Cédric Charlier and saturated knits and tropical prints at Dior. Paco Rabanne’s ’40s-inspired dress looked majestically royal, while Louis Vuitton ran with the chicest tracksuit in sapphire. The sky was the limit — and the hue — of Alexander McQueen’s romantic, ruffled gown.
Sequins have become a runway (and real-life) staple, and this season was dripping with them. Balenciaga’s body-hugging neon and black separates shined from head to toe while Saint Laurent’s asymmetrical minidress was festooned with spangles, right up to the giant bow. Over at Paco Rabanne, the bootcut pants screamed purple reign.
Do padding, but make it fashion. Givenchy shaped the classic cozy quilted coat into a bolero nipped at the hip, then layered it over tweed. Marine Serre’s pastel pink pouf topped with a matching balaclava looked positively snuggle-worthy. As for Dries van Noten’s divine cocoon, c’était la vie en violet.
Hot pants for fall? Hermès’ high-waisted leather pair was styled with a collared blouse and sheer tights (and a chic fanny pack that doubles as a belt) while Miu Miu’s military take on the trend was made of camo knit. Off-White’s silver shorties were topped with a cropped blazer — glitter gloves optional.
Cloak and swagger
Crusade into fall wearing the season’s most ubiquitous outerwear silhouette: the cape. A dazzling lightweight version was draped over a metallic midi dress at Celine, while Loewe’s ivory knit number topped a racy lace top and trousers. Valentino’s yellow mantle was a study in sunny simplicity.
After 36 years of propelling Chanel forward with modern riffs on the brand’s signature tweed, double-C handbags (collectors’ items well before Instagram), and surreal set designs, Karl Lagerfeld’s genius was still evident in his final show for the French house. The decor was an alpine wonderland: Swiss chalets surrounding a snow-covered runway. After a minute of silence in honor of the late designer, Cara Delevingne opened the extravaganza, followed by a parade of his muses (including Penelope Cruz, a new ambassador for the brand). The finale was met with tears and a standing ovation. Each guest departed with a sketch of Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel that read “The beat goes on…” As will the spirit of Lagerfeld for Chanel.